An "Armenian" tour of Istanbul

I spent yesterday exploring Istanbul with a friend of a friend (Thank you, John) who was born and raised in Istanbul, but is an Armenian. We spent about three hours walking around the city and seeing many of the Armenian sites. It is interesting to see so much of an Armenian presence here, but it is very much behind closed doors. For instance, the Armenian high school that has existed since sometime in the 1800's and still serves as an Armenian school is marked by a large Turkish flag.

We also spent a considerable amount of time in the many bookstores of Istanbul and I was absolutely amazed by how many books have been translated into Turkish on the topic of the genocide. It is a very popular topic, and books such as the Black Dog of Fate have already been translated. Another popular book is Metal Storm, in which Turkey and the US are at war. Though I haven't felt the affects at all, there is certainly some Anti-American sentiment.

Pre-Season

So I put on the pads this past Saturday. 5 catches and a touch in our mini-scrimmage. I'm looking for another preseason MVP (that's a reference for all you Jumbos). There are actually two other Americans who are playing which makes things interesting and I'm starting to get to know some of the other "Sultans."

My favorite thing about the team is the breakup at the end of practice. "Bir, iki, uc! Sultans!"

I will be sure to keep you all posted...our first game is November 26th.

Teaching

I've landed my first teaching job! I went for an interview and 5 hours later I was standing in front of a class. Standing in front of my first class gave me new appreciation for what my parents did for 30 some odd years. It was quite nervewracking, but it all turned out well. The students are great for the most part. I've had four separate classes now and it is only getting easier. I'm working for the American Cultural Association school, and I'm told they "pay on time" which is not the norm for the teaching profession here in Istanbul.

Here are a couple of shots in Istanbul.
on the boat to Asia

an armenian church in kadikoy, on the asian side of Istanbul. We tried to get in, but the church is closed

Bogazigi Sultans

An email from someone I've been in contact with here in Turkey regarding American football...call it a comeback

Dear Ed,

First of all, it is great to hear from you and we would love to see you in our team as a player and/or as a coach. Let me tell you about our football program. I'd rather say adventure instead of program because things are very amateur and hard for us here.

Football was started in Turkey in 1988 without pads in our university. I started in 1999 and I played in a few matches without pads. We wouldn't even dream of buying pads because they were expensive and not everybody could afford it. And our university wouldn't spend that much money.

In summer 2001, a clinic was organized, coaches came from USA and brought 2nd hand equipments. That's how we started playing with pads. It was unbelievable for us. This meant the first problem was solved.

The second problem is american football didn't have a federation in Turkey. So it was not an official sport. We were playing with other universities in a league we organized. This, not having an authority, created many problems and still we are facing with the consequences of it. Last year this problem was solved too. American Football is now official within the Baseball and Softball Federation. Therefore we are going to play in the first official league in Turkey for the first time! That's why we want to be the champions for sure and we need some help.

Well I guess that's all for general situation, let me tell you about our team.

Bogazici Sultans: University Team
Bogazici University 1896 Sports Club: Club Team

Our team as I mentioned is the first american football team in Turkey. And stayed undefeated for a long time. We were second last year and the year before, we won the championship 3 years ago. So we are always serious title chasers.

Right now, we structured a coaching staff consisting of experienced players. But we are looking for a coach/coaches to help us develop our gameplan/game preparation/practices etc. further.

And the $$$ side which is our third and the main problem right now.. Our university do not help us about it. They sometimes buy jerseys and sometimes give our transportation fees. That's all.. All spendings are made by us with the money that we collect from the players every month. So we need someone that lives in Turkey and wants to help/play with us without any financial expectation. It is sad but that's the way it is now and I hope you'll be OK with that.

Regards,

Firat
(an easy pronounciation for you: Fred)

I went to their first practice as a spectator last weekend. It's fair to say I'm being heavily recruited by Firat (he's the O coordinator/quarterback)to play--I will keep you posted on how it all turns out, but there is a pretty good chance I will be putting on the pads sometime in the near future. I seemed to have worked out a Randy Moss/TO/Kevin Kelley situation...I only play on gameday.

Courtney and I have moved into our apartment here in Istanbul. It's in a great area called Cihangir, and pretty much smack dab in the middle of the city. Here's a photo of the place...come visit!


I started my CELTA certification course yesterday for teaching English as a second language. It will last for 10 weeks, but it is part time so I hope to find a job in the meantime. The class seems great--it is a mix of Americans, Brits, Turks, and a guy from Holland who is absolutely hysterical. It is an interesting range of ages/backgrounds as well. I'm amazed by the non-native speakers English fluency.

Last week I went to the Dolmabahce palace. It was the last hurrah of the Ottoman empire and completed in 1858. The palace has 285 rooms (68 toilets) and the most incredible chandelier I have ever seen. There is an incredible amount of history here (think Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman empires), and there is so much to see and do.

Hello everyone,

For those of you who don't know, I am spending the next 9-10 months in Istanbul teaching English as a foreign language and seeing what this interesting city has to offer. Courtney (my girlfriend) is here on a Fulbright grant and will be studying youth participation in civil society across the Republic of Turkey. You can read her blog (which will quite be interesting and informative) here.

I arrived in the late hours (due to a flight delay that involved 7 hours in Heathrow) Saturday evening. I had promised Courtney I would run a portion of the Eurasia (starts in Asia and ends in Europe) marathon the next day. Courtney completed the marathon...I completed just over two miles. The marathon was an interesting introduction into Turkish culture...let's just say it wasn't exactly Boston in terms of fanfare. The Turks seemed more puzzled by WHY someone would run 42 km (26.2 mi) than excited about cheering the runners on.

I've spent the majority of this week getting settled and getting a general feel for the city. We are currently residing at a sort of dorm for American researchers in a small fishing village called Arnavutkoy. It is a beautiful area and it has been interesting to talk with all of the other Fulbrighters. It is certainly an eclectic mix of people. Though our accomodation is nice, we are actively looking for a more centrally located (and bigger) living space.

I hope everyone is well. I'm not sure the exact direction this blog will take, so if anyone is interested in hearing about a certain topic, please send an email or comment in the space available.